Travel

Stop the Car at This Retro American Diner in the Middle of Nowhere New Zealand

And see the classic car collection lurking beneath the burgers and shakes.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika

Geoff and Bernard Harmon never intended to open a U.S. diner. They just needed a place to store their classic cars, says John, as we straddle our quad bikes atop a cliff clearing overlooking the jagged Kaikōura coastline, flanked by black sand beaches, snowy tipped peaks, lush green rainforest; and mineral-rich seawater. John is a local living on the outskirts of Kaikōura, in Glenstrae where he and his brother Alistair, run Glenstrae Farm 4WD Adventures. I’m on a two-hour quad bike tour, ripping through the sheep farm, made up of a unique mix of hilly countryside, manuka glades, bluffs, and stupendous views of this incredible slice of New Zealand’s South Island, three hour’s drive from Christchurch.

In Kaikōura, Kekenos (New Zealand Fur Seal) seals out-populate the people. They’re just about everywhere, basking on rocks on the side of the windy highway into town, on black sand beaches, and gliding through the water. They’re the first and last thing you see when visiting the teeny tiny town. Other than marine animal encounters, Kaikōura is fairly underdeveloped when it comes to a tourist town. It just opened its first big chain hotel on the beachfront, which locals are hoping will bring in more tourists. There are not a lot of lodging options. There’s a train carriage, holiday homes, and the usual motels and holiday parks. As with every small town, there’s also one quirky thing that makes it unique or gives it character. In America take a road trip through the midwest and you’ll be overwhelmed with the madcap and whacky, but the last place I’d expect to find the zany would be Kaikōura. Then I walked into Bernie’s Diner.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika


Stepping into Bernie’s Diner is similar to stepping into the Delorean and setting the destination to 1950. I half expected Danny Zuko’s gang to roll in with oiled hair, jittering about as if they were electrocuted one too many times. No Danny, but the bright turquoise blue booths and swivel stools, black and white checkerboard floors, and jukebox fulfilled my Grease fantasies. I sat down at a metallic table, with a laminate top—classic. Even the ketchup and mustard bottles are a perfect replica. The waitress hands me a laminated menu. “Just wave me over when you’re ready,” she says. it has all the trimmings of a classic American diner. Hot dogs, check, burgers, check, milkshakes, check. There are even breakfast waffles—with bacon, not fried chicken. I opt for the Ford Fish Burger and the waitress convinced me to get a chocolate milkshake. “You can’t leave without trying a milkshake,” she urged me.

While I waited for my food, I decided to get a closer look at the turquoise blue classic car staring me down. It’s an original unrestored 1955 T-Bird, according to the sign wedged on the windshield. A rope slung across the front keeps people out, but close enough to admire the machinery. On the wall behind the car are Elvis and Audrey Hepburn posters, signed. Hung up around the diner is memorabilia from the 50s, including record covers, large posters of classic cars, and neon signs. The gas pumps, as they call them in America are a nice touch. Retro Castrol cans line a window sill, and a mini gift shop sells Beatles clocks, Marilyn Monroe number plates, and Elvis merchandise.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika


The waitress returns with my order. Any reference to American diners stops here. Forget the sugar-filled potato hamburger buns, my pan-fried gurnard is sandwiched between two sourdough buns, the size of my face I might add, with a tiny Bernie’s Diner paper flag, plunged in it. The stack of bright green lettuce buries the rest of the burger, but when I bite into it, immediately, the combination of homemade tomato relish and lemon hits my tastebuds, making them dance as I make my way through the cooked onions, tomatoes, and fish. Everything tastes fresh. There’s no grease dripping down my pinky, no spills. This is not American at all, but I prefer it. The fries are seasoned and cooked to a crispy delight. There is even a dollop of coleslaw on my plate. I polished off the burger, chips and coleslaw. Not one regret was had.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika

As I was licking my fingers for that leftover salty, sweet, and leftover burger residue, I spotted the waitress, wearing a head-to-toe black diner uniform, with my milkshake. It’s a tall order, served in a classic milkshake glass and topped with a swirl of whipped cream and a sprinkling of crushed Oreos. The sides of the glass were drizzled with chocolate syrup. Despite the look, I was surprised to find it wasn’t sickly sweet. Again, not American. It was light on the stomach, with an indulgent chocolate taste. I’m not a big milkshake fan, but this one didn’t have me reaching for a glass of water at the end. Dare I say I would have another milkshake on my next visit? At this point, I’m slumped in my chair, full, satisfied, and ready to sunbake on a beach.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika

Just as I was gathering my belongings, ready to leave, the waitress shouted, “Do you want to see the cars?” John had told me about the Harmons Motor Museum the day before. “If you go down to the basement you can see only a portion of their collection,” he said. To this day, the Harmons are collecting cars, with the son inheriting his father’s eye for a classic. “Here, I will buzz you in,” she said. I push the door open when I hear the buzz. The glare of fluorescent light bouncing off the glistening white tops blinds me for a second. There are 50 or so, classic cars lined up, head to tail, in a warehouse space, which has been turned into a shrine for the relics. I recall John telling me the building was a Mitre10, which the Harmons purchased after the 2016 earthquake. It looked like a warehouse space, with a pitched ceiling and exploded beams. Although, one side of the space is made to look like a building set. It has arched windows, dark black trimming, and the words, Adelphi Hotel, 1921. I later discovered from John, it is a replica of the Adelphi Hotel, a historic hotel and pub in Kaikōura and the main street of town. The Vegie Shop and The Sports Shop, are also hidden in the replica. Sadly the original structure was demolished after the 2016 earthquake, but it lives on inside the Harmon Motor Museum.

Roaming through the rows of classic cars is a step back in time. Each car has a bio if you will of the year it was made, who made it and a small spiel of the history. Not all the cars in the basement are American, there are plenty of Kiwi icons too and some English cars. There is even the car the Harmons grew up in, hidden among the fleet. The warehouse was originally bought to safely preserve these remnants and memories of bygone days, but the Harmons realised the town needed more land-based attractions, so they decided to share their passion with strangers.

bernies diner kaikoura
Photo: Natasha Bazika


Today, you can visit the Harmon Motor Museum, lurking beneath the bright, turquoise blue, Bernie’s Diner, sitting on the side of the road, just a few minutes drive from the main street. You can’t miss it. The entrance is a building-size jukebox, painted in turquoise blue.

MORE: Feast Your Eyes on Christchurch, The South Island’s Gateway to Adventure, Wine, and Art

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Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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