Travel

This Seemingly Apocalyptic Desert Lake Is Alive With Art

No, you're not hallucinating. Unless you want to be.

ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES
ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES
ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES

Despite all appearances, the apocalypse has not fallen on the Salton Sea. You’d be forgiven for thinking otherwise, what with the rotted beach houses, discarded boats, and piles of dead fish (we’ll get there). But the Salton Sea is far from lifeless.

If your Californian aquatic inclinations lean more Tahoe than desert outpost, you probably haven’t been to the largest lake in California, so here’s a quick history lesson: Located about 60 miles south of Palm Springs, the Salton Sea was created when the Colorado River flooded the Imperial Valley, which sits 227 feet below sea level, in 1905 (not the first time this valley flooded). The sudden appearance of the lake brought resorts, fancy houses, and even The Beach Boys. The area was even dubbed the “Salton Riviera” in the ‘50s, netting more annual visitors than Yosemite.

Unsplash/Naomi August
Unsplash/Naomi August
Unsplash/Naomi August

But by the 1970s, the lake was drying up: The accidental lake had no overflow, and thus no natural stabilization system. It became saltier than sea water. The runoff began killing all the fish, and vacationers were like, “maybe let’s go to Yosemite instead.” It’s been a legend among abandoned places ever since, seemingly tempting fate even further by straddling the San Andreas Fault.

But here’s the thing: The Salton Sea still has a population-a point driven home by Estamos Aquí, a documentary made by young Salton Sea residents. From the Torres Martinez Desert Cahuilla Indians who have always been there to those who bought homes more recently, the Salton Sea is not a ghost town. Despite the fact that the lake continues to shrink-and solutions to mitigate the resulting toxic dust just aren’t coming together-life is flourishing. 

Case in point: the art scene. If you dig a weird desert aesthetic that’s less corporate than Coachella and less tech bro-ey than Burning Man, the Salton Sea will deliver. Head south on California 111 past the date farms, look for the sparkling blue water, ignore the dead fish smell, and immerse yourself. Here are just a few of the wonders to behold.

 David McNew / Stringer/ Getty Images
David McNew / Stringer/ Getty Images
David McNew / Stringer/ Getty Images

Bombay Beach

Bombay Beach is basically the Art Basel of the Salton Sea. The community of 295 is littered with large-scale art, thanks to the Bombay Beach Biennale, a yearly (yes, the name contradicts that) three-day celebration that brings more than 150 art installations to town. Festival founders Lily Johnson White, Stefan Ashkenazy, and Tao Ruspoli-the latter of whom runs the coolest Airbnb at the Salton Sea-created the event which includes everything from sunrise opera performances to a banned-book library. 

You can visit Bombay Beach anytime to see the art that has remained after the festival. One of the most captivating installations, The Bombay Beach Drive-In by Stefan Ashkenazy, Sean Dale Taylor, and Arwen Byrd, consists of rusted cars facing a blank screen (picture a drive-in movie theater post-Rapture). Another must-see is Lodestar by Randy Polumbo, a crashed plane that kind of looks like a carnival ride.

 Kevin Key / Slworking/ Moment/ Getty Images
Kevin Key / Slworking/ Moment/ Getty Images
Kevin Key / Slworking/ Moment/ Getty Images

Head down to the beach and you’ll see a swingset out in the water. This is The Water Ain’t That Bad, It’s Just Salty by Chris “Ssippi” Wessman, and Damon James Duke. (Confounding side note: A lot of people wade out to this and take thirst traps.) Down on the sand, among all of the fish bones, you’ll find The only other thing is nothing by Michael Daniel Birnberg-also known as MIDABI-a metal sign that says exactly that.

There are many other installations, including a 40-foot-long fish/aircraft (Da Vinci Fish by Sean Guerrero, Royce Carlson, Juanita Hull-Carlson, and John Murphy) and a door that leads nowhere (The Open House by Keith Jones and Lee Henderson). Walk to all of them, and then grab a cheap drink at the Ski Inn-the lowest bar in the Western Hemisphere-before moseying along. 

Flickr/Devon Christopher Adams
Flickr/Devon Christopher Adams
Flickr/Devon Christopher Adams

The North Shore Beach and Yacht Club

The dried-up lake bed is scattered with abandoned boats that have been reimagined as canvases, but a little less than 20 miles in the opposite direction of Bombay Beach is an under-the-radar attraction for architecture buffs. The North Shore Beach and Yacht Club originally opened in 1959 as a ritzy hangout and a fixture of the Salton Riviera scene. But like much of the area, it became battered by time and the elements, ultimately throwing in the towel in 1981 and sitting abandoned for decades, gathering dust and graffiti. 

Today, it’s on the National Register of Historic Places and, following a multimillion-dollar restoration process, it has been reimagined as the Salton Sea Museum and community center. So why all the attention for what could have otherwise been the abandoned shell of a marina? Because it was designed by Albert Frey, the father of desert modernism (think retro motel with breeze blocks or those Mad Men episodes where Don goes to California). Designed to look like a submarine, the North Shore Beach and Yacht Club is outfitted with nautical porthole windows similar to the ones Frey had in one of his own homes. People pay for architecture tours in Palm Springs without realizing that one of Frey’s coolest designs is at the Salton Sea.

ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES
ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES
ROBYN BECK/ AFP/ GETTY IMAGES

Salvation Mountain and Slab City

Located 20 miles south of Bombay Beach, Salvation Mountain is what people who have never taken acid imagine an acid trip to be like: a rainbow-colored, 50-foot hill of clay mound outfitted with a yellow staircase, flowers, birds, hearts, and colorful stripes (Fun fact: Kesha filmed a music video there). Salvation Mountain was created by Leonard Knight, a Korean War veteran who found Jesus while reciting the Sinner’s Prayer in a van in San Diego. 

Knight originally wanted to spread the good word via hot air balloon, but upon discovering the California desert, he instead decided to build a colorful mountain. He toiled away at the mound of paint and clay during the day and slept in his truck at night until his work was complete. Knight passed away in 2014 at the age of 82, but Salvation Mountain lives on and it still bears the words of that prayer he said in the van all those years ago: “Jesus, I’m a sinner, please come upon my body and into my heart.”

DesignClass/Unsplash
DesignClass/Unsplash
DesignClass/Unsplash

Venture beyond Salvation Mountain and you’ll find yourself in Slab City, the self-proclaimed last free place in America. This rogue desert community rose up from the parched desert after World War II marine base Camp Dunlap was demolished, leaving behind the concrete slabs that give the settlement its name. The sprawling and extremely unofficial town is populated by snowbirds, artists, and dedicated desert rats who all have one thing in common: They want to be very, very off the grid.

Residents-who are technically squatters-have no running water and no electric grid. Some say they have no laws. What they do have, however, is a thriving community in a harsh, unforgiving environment. Summer temperatures can soar above 110 and winter wind brings an unholy chill, but people remain. These days, there’s even a library, hostel, and a solar-powered music venue. If the Salton Sea gives you apocalyptic vibes, Slab City is proof that even in a post-apocalyptic landscape, art, human spirit, and creativity will remain.Sign up here for our daily Thrillist email, get Next Flight Out for more travel coverage, and subscribe here for our YouTube channel to get your fix of the best in food/drink/fun.

Krista Diamond is a freelance/fiction writer who lives in (and often writes about) Las Vegas. Her writing has been featured in The New York Times, HuffPost, Eater, Business Insider, Fodor’s, and Desert Companion.

Travel

Ditch your Phone for ‘Dome Life’ in this Pastoral Paradise Outside Port Macquarie 

A responsible, sustainable travel choice for escaping big city life for a few days.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

The urge to get as far away as possible from the incessant noise and pressures of ‘big city life’ has witnessed increasingly more of us turn to off-grid adventures for our holidays: Booking.com polled travellers at the start of 2023 and 55% of us wanted to spend our holidays ‘off-grid’.  Achieving total disconnection from the unyielding demands of our digitised lives via some kind of off-grid nature time—soft or adventurous—is positioned not only as a holiday but, indeed, a necessity for our mental health. 

Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, an accommodation collection of geodesic domes dotted across a lush rural property in Greater Port Macquarie (a few hours’ drive from Sydney, NSW), offers a travel experience that is truly ‘off-grid’. In the figurative ‘wellness travel’ sense of the word, and literally, they run on their own independent power supply—bolstered by solar—and rely not on the town grid. 

Ten minutes before you arrive at the gates for a stay at Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, your phone goes into ‘SOS ONLY’. Apple Maps gives up, and you’re pushed out of your comfort zone, driving down unsealed roads in the dark, dodging dozens of dozing cows. Then, you must ditch your car altogether and hoist yourself into an open-air, all-terrain 4WD with gargantuan wheels. It’s great fun being driven through muddy gullies in this buggy; you feel like Laura Dern and Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park.  As your buggy pulls in front of your personal Nature Dome, it’s not far off that “Welcome…to Jurassic Park” jaw-dropping moment—your futuristic-looking home is completely engulfed by thriving native bushland; beyond the outdoor campfire lie expansive hills and valleys of green farmland, dotted with sheep and trees. You’re almost waiting to see a roaming brachiosaurus glide past, munching on a towering gum tree…instead, a few inquisitive llamas trot past your Dome to check out their new visitor. 

To fully capture the awe of inhabiting a geodesic dome for a few days, a little history of these futuristic-looking spherical structures helps. Consisting of interlocking triangular skeletal struts supported by (often transparent) light walls, geodesic domes were developed in the 20th century by American engineer and architect R. Buckminster Fuller, and were used for arenas. Smaller incarnations have evolved into a ‘future-proof’ form of modern housing: domes are able to withstand harsh elements due to the stability provided by the durable materials of their construction and their large surface area to volume ratio (which helps minimize wind impact and prevents the structure from collapsing). As housing, they’re also hugely energy efficient – their curved shape helps to conserve heat and reduce energy costs, making them less susceptible to temperature changes outside. The ample light let in by their panels further reduces the need for artificial power. 

Due to their low environmental impact, they’re an ideal sustainable travel choice. Of course, Tom’s Creek Nature Domes’ owner-operators, Cardia and Lee Forsyth, know all this, which is why they have set up their one-of-a-kind Nature Domes experience for the modern traveller. It’s also no surprise to learn that owner Lee is an electrical engineer—experienced in renewable energy—and that he designed the whole set-up. As well as the off-grid power supply, rainwater tanks are used, and the outdoor hot tub is heated by a wood fire—your campfire heats up your tub water via a large metal coil. Like most places in regional Australia, the nights get cold – but rather than blast a heater, the Domes provide you with hot water bottles, warm blankets, lush robes and heavy curtains to ward off the chill.

nature domes port macquarie
Photo: Nature Domes

You’ll need to be self-sufficient during your stay at the Domes, bringing your own food. Support local businesses and stock up in the town of Wauchope on your drive-in (and grab some pastries and coffee at Baked Culture while you’re at it). There’s a stovetop, fridge (stocked as per a mini bar), BBQs, lanterns and mozzie coils, and you can even order DIY S’More packs for fireside fun. The interiors of the Domes have a cosy, stylish fit-out, with a modern bathroom (and a proper flushing toilet—none of that drop bush toilet stuff). As there’s no mobile reception, pack a good book or make the most of treasures that lie waiting to be discovered at every turn: a bed chest full of board games, a cupboard crammed with retro DVDs, a stargazing telescope (the skies are ablaze come night time). Many of these activities are ideal for couples, but there’s plenty on offer for solo travellers, such as yoga mats, locally-made face masks and bath bombs for hot tub soaks. 

It’s these thoughtful human touches that reinforce the benefit of making a responsible travel choice by booking local and giving your money to a tourism operator in the Greater Port Macquarie Region, such as Tom’s Creek Nature Domes. The owners are still working on the property following the setbacks of COVID-19, and flooding in the region —a new series of Domes designed with families and groups in mind is under construction, along with an open-air, barn-style dining hall and garden stage. Once ready, the venue will be ideal for wedding celebrations, with wedding parties able to book out the property. They’ve already got one couple—who honeymooned at the Domes—ready and waiting. Just need to train up the llamas for ring-bearer duties! 

An abundance of favourite moments come to mind from my two-night stay at Tom’s Creek: sipping champagne and gourmet picnicking at the top of a hill on a giant swing under a tree, with a bird’s eye view of the entire property (the ‘Mountain Top picnic’ is a must-do activity add on during your stay), lying on a deckchair at night wrapped in a blanket gazing up at starry constellations and eating hot melted marshmallows, to revelling in the joys of travellers before me, scrawled on notes in a jar of wishes left by the telescope (you’re encouraged to write your own to add to the jar). But I’ll leave you with a gratitude journal entry I made while staying there. I will preface this by saying that I don’t actually keep a gratitude journal, but Tom’s Creek Nature Domes is just the kind of place that makes you want to start one. And so, waking up on my second morning at Tom’s —lacking any 4G bars to facilitate my bad habit of a morning Instagram scroll—I finally opened up a notebook and made my first journal entry:

‘I am grateful to wake up after a deep sleep and breathe in the biggest breaths of this clean air, purified by nature and scented with eucalyptus and rain. I am grateful for this steaming hot coffee brewed on a fire. I feel accomplished at having made myself. I am grateful for the skittish sheep that made me laugh as I enjoyed a long nature walk at dawn and the animated billy goats and friendly llamas overlooking my shoulder as I write this: agreeable company for any solo traveller. I’m grateful for total peace, absolute stillness.” 

Off-grid holiday status: unlocked.

Where: Tom’s Creek Nature Domes, Port Macquarie, 2001 Toms Creek Rd
Price: $450 per night, book at the Natura Domes website.

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