How Baltimore's NiHao Became an Unlikely Pandemic Success Story

The shrimp dumplings and Peking duck might have something to do with it.

By jess mayhugh

Published on 09/02/2021 at 04:31 PM

Photography by Melissa Hom / DESIGN BY GRACE HAN FOR THRILLIST

When Pichet Ong was a chef and dessert consultant in New York City, he would make frequent five-hour drives to visit his partner, Jase, in Fairfax, Virginia. A little over halfway to his destination, he always stopped at the same point. “Baltimore was always a stop for me to eat and take a rest,” he remembers. “I became friends with many of the chefs there. Baltimore is still in that gritty phase that New York used to be in.”

Little did he know that, in a few short years, he’d be opening NiHao on the corner of Boston and Wagner streets in Southeast Baltimore. The contemporary Chinese restaurant has received massive critical acclaim-including a spot on Esquire‘s list of Best New Restaurants-and, perhaps more importantly, has been so embraced by locals that dumplings and Peking duck sell out at least five nights a week. All this after opening on the brink of a global pandemic.

With decades of experience working in kitchens at Chez Panisse, Olives, Jean-Georges, Tabla, and Spice Market, Ong knows a thing or two about running a strong restaurant-no matter the circumstance. The original plan was for NiHao to open in November 2019 and they had all the managing members in place but, due to a construction delay, the opening got extended until March of 2020, one week before the COVID-19 shutdown.

“We saw what was happening in Asia and we were not optimistic,” says Lydia Chang, NiHao manager and business partner of legendary DC chef and restaurateur Peter Chang.

Still, Chang and Ong knew that they’d open in whatever capacity they could, even if it was just takeout. And that’s exactly what happened. The first night of service saw lines of customers out the door to pick up their orders, and staff brought out cookies and tea to ease the wait.

“We were so fortunate to get tremendous support right away from the Canton neighborhood,” Chang says. “The minute we started construction, people were excited. If we were to do anything close to NiHao in DC, people would already come with the presumption of Peter Chang. Baltimore residents don’t go by names, they’re like, ‘So what? Let me taste the food.'”

NiHao fills the city’s void between a mom-and-pop spot and a fine-dining restaurant, providing a type of cuisine not overly saturated in Baltimore at a price point that city residents can afford. The food itself draws on flavors of central China with some modern twists, and was intentionally designed to appeal to the average diner.

Ong draws on his multifaceted heritage when conceptualizing dishes. Born in Bangkok to a Thai Chinese father and Singaporean Chinese mother, he grew up in a very food-focused household with his aunt in Singapore, who would whip up steamed custard, fried chicken wings, fried tofu, cold-smoked fish, and BBQ pork. For Chang, she is inspired by her grandmother, who was illiterate and communicated love through food, like her excellent fried rice.

“There are a lot of dishes I grew up eating in Singapore and Hong Kong and then the flavors from Central China are more balanced and not in your face.” Ong says. “We liked the idea of opening a restaurant of things we like to eat, to bring it back to the basics of cooking. The first NiHao menu was very basic and Chef Peter said, ‘Where’s the lobster? Where’s the salt and pepper shrimp? Where’s the technique? Where’s the wow factor?’ I said, ‘I like this, let’s try this out.'”

Turns out that Ong’s instinct was right and diners flooded the phone lines and online delivery platforms with orders-mainly for the whole Peking duck kits, pillowy soft shrimp dumplings, and signature savory desserts. Keeping up with demand became a good problem to have.

After being open for about three to four weeks, the restaurant added Uber delivery to keep up, then when COVID-19 cases decreased in Baltimore, it was able to add indoor dining. Next, NiHao got its liquor license and then, at the beginning of December, it was back to shutdown. Currently, the restaurant is back open and gearing up for Lunar New Year specials.

“Every month, we feel like we’re doing something different,” Chang says. “We understand we have to be flexible, but we have this dining room that is beautiful and built-out all occupied full of boxed containers.”

With all of those pendulum swings certainly came learning curves and priority shifts. A big focus became sustainable packaging and trying to provide meals that would travel home well with customers.

“You want to deliver a restaurant experience because you’re asking the customer to pay $30 for a meal they might have to reheat at home,” Ong says. “We had to adjust portions, include instructions, give the food enough room to avoid re-steaming. Peter is well-known for his fried items so we wanted to make sure the fried chicken fared well. At one point, we were spending more on containers than protein. Thankfully, we’ve stayed busy.”

While Ong oversees operations as managing partner, he knows it was important to hire local staff-like chef Antoni Szachowicz and bar manager Ashley Mack-who really know the neighborhood and could keep the place feeling close to the community.

“We needed them to be the anchors,” Ong says. “We have chefs that don’t live far from the restaurant. They’re not trained in the style of Chinese food, but they know how to deep-fry, how to toss the wok, how to cook protein. The best compliment is to see chefs who grew up eating Chinese food tour the kitchen and whisper, ‘Wow, I can’t believe the cooks aren’t Chinese!”

Ong and Chang agree that it’s this blend of cultures-from Singapore to Baltimore-that makes NiHao the success story it is today.

“NiHao’s menu reflects all of us. If I had to sum it up, this is the food based on all of our lives,” Ong says. “You can’t really describe anything as truly authentic, because food moves.”Want more Thrillist? Follow us on Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, YouTube, TikTok, and Snapchat!

Jess Mayhugh is a Cities Editor for Thrillist, who got her hands on those shrimp dumplings as soon as she could. Follow all her food and drink cravings on Instagram.

Washington DC

15 Totally Free Things to Do in DC

A full itinerary, completely free of charge.

By madeline weinfield

Published on 23/08/2022 at 09:39

Smithsonian American Art Museum and the Renwick Gallery

Washington DC is one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations, and for those of us who call the District home, it’s easy to see why. With dozens of world-class museums, murals that transform streets into galleries, and sites brimming with history, DC offers a full agenda-completely free of charge. Whether you want to try a new farmer’s market, explore a new hike, or polish off your roller skating or canoeing skills, here are some of our favourite free things to do in the District.

Hike, bike, or stroll along the C&O Canal

The historic Chesapeake and Ohio Canal is one of the most accessible nature escapes from the District. Thanks to a multi-year restoration project, the first mile of the canal is an idyllic walk that’s easy to access in Georgetown. Stick to a short stroll there, or grab a bike or lace up your hiking shoes for a longer adventure along the 184.5-mile canal.

Jump on the pickleball craze

Pickleball is working its way up the ladder past kickball and softball as one of America’s favourite games. Jump on the craze and practice your paddling at one of the District’s pickleball courts in Takoma Park, the Palisades, and more. Plus, Washington DC Pickleball invites guests to drop in to beginner sessions to try their hand at the sport before signing up for a $30 annual membership.

Bike the Mount Vernon Trail

DC is incredibly bike-friendly, and luckily that applies to the land immediately outside of the city as well. Start in the city and bike along the Mount Vernon Trail, a scenic route that hugs the water and cuts through the woods. It’s about a 10-mile trip from DC to Mount Vernon, but you can cut the trip slightly short and end at the Old Town Alexandria waterfront-just make sure to factor in time for ice cream before pedalling home.

Explore a sculpture park

While not located in the District proper, Glenstone, an expansive sculpture park in Maryland, is worth the 45-minute drive. Tickets to the park are free (just be sure to reserve several weeks in advance), and the 300-acre space offers stunning art, architecture, and open land. In addition to its indoor gallery spaces, you can spend hours walking on paths that wind through sculptures, meadows, and forests.

See the monuments at night

When the sun goes down-and the summer humidity somewhat dissipates-head to the National Mall for the rare chance to see the monuments without busloads of tourists. Moonlight will give you a different perspective as you traverse the marble steps of the Lincoln Memorial or gaze up at the Washington Monument set aglow with lights.

Museum hop the day away

One of DC’s greatest strengths is its world-class Smithsonian museums that are open to the public free of charge. There is no shortage of options, from the intimate Renwick Gallery, to the sprawling National Museum of Natural History, the Smithsonians offer something for everyone. Pro tip: Some of the museums are open late in the evenings, making for an ideal date night.

Explore the city’s murals

Washington is home to hundreds of murals that are becoming as much a part of the city’s landscape as the monuments on the National Mall. Take a self-guided tour of these colourful creations no matter which neighbourhood you happen to be in. MuralsDC, the organization behind 150 of the District’s public artworks, is a great resource for mapping out a route to explore the city’s street art.

Take in a birds-eye view of the city

Washington looks pretty stunning from up high, and there are few spots within the city that make for phenomenal vantage points. Rooftop bars and restaurants offer epic views for the price of a drink or two, but there’s no more iconic sight than seeing the city from the top of the Washington Monument, which is completely free. Book a ticket ahead of time and ride an elevator all the way to the top of the monument and step out on the 500-foot observation deck.

Wander through a garden

DC is home to some of the most beautiful urban gardens in the country, and many of them are open to the public for free. There is nothing like an afternoon spent strolling through, or picnicking, at the expansive 446-acre United States Arboretum or wandering through the Botanic Garden on the edge of the Mall. For something a bit smaller, explore the grounds at Tudor Place or Dumbarton Oaks (free in the winter), both of which are in Georgetown.

Hike the Billy Goat Trail

You can catch one of the District’s most popular hiking trails, the Billy Goat Trail, from the C&O canal. The full trail is 4.7 miles and ranges from easy to strenuous, so hike a section in and back or make the full loop for the variety.

Pay your respect at Arlington National Cemetery

Just across the Potomac from DC, Arlington National Cemetery is the final resting place for more than 400,000 veterans. The cemetery is an expanse of 639 hallowed acres and the ANC Explorer allows visitors to locate graves, notable sites, and take self-guided walking tours to spots including the tomb of the Unknown Soldier as well as the final resting place of President John F. Kennedy.

Lace up your roller skates

When was the last time you went roller skating? Chances are it’s been too long. So get back into this nostalgic activity at the Anacostia Park roller skating pavilion. You can rent skates for free, just show proof of a government-issued ID, and the skating pavilion is open from 9 to 5 every day.

Help clean up the Anacostia River

We all know there’s a lot of work to be done to keep our waterways clean. Do your part, and have some fun, by participating in the city’s Green Boat initiative. On select weekends, DCers can join a two-hour guided paddle along the Anacostia River to collect trash and monitor the river’s progress.

Stroll your local farmer’s market

DC’s close proximity to the farms of Maryland, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and beyond mean that the city’s farmers’ markets always have something to offer. Check out the year-round markets like Eastern Market in Capitol Hill and the Sunday market in Dupont Circle or head to seasonal markets like the pop-up in front of the White House that draws vendors like Cucina al Volo and Call Your Mother Deli.

Play tourist all around the city

It’s easy to forget that all those traditionally touristy activities can be fun for locals too. If you haven’t been on a tour of the White House, the National Archives, the Library of Congress, or the Capitol, this is your sign. All are free with advanced reservations. Plus, tucked in the northern quadrant of NW, the Washington National Cathedral is free and open to all. Tour the cathedral’s impressive architecture, 215 stained glass windows, 112 Gothically-inspired gargoyles, and enormous pipe organ. See if you can spot the sculpture of Darth Vader.

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Madeline Weinfield is a Thrillist contributor.