Food and Drink

Everything You Need to Know About Grappa

This underdog Italian digestif is gaining popularity in the U.S.

Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa
Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa
Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa

If you’ve had any experience with grappa, it likely came at the end of a meal at an Italian restaurant after a waiter handed you a shot glass of clear liquid. Grappa has been a beloved spirit in Italy for more than 200 years, yet its reputation has been misunderstood in the U.S.

“Grappa is an underdog spirit,” says Scott Rosenbaum, a certified instructor for The Wine & Spirit Education Trust and ambassador for Hello Grappa. “It has a reputation historically as being a spirit full of burn and not much character and that couldn’t be further from the modern sensibility. Keep an open mind and you’ll constantly be delighted by what you find.”

Over the past five years, however, grappa imports have ramped up, providing an increasing number of options. Grappa is no longer a mystery spirit you should be wary of, it’s something you should experiment with. Here’s what you need to know about grappa.

What is grappa and what is it made from?

Grappa is a brandy from Italy made from the skins of wine grapes, which is called pomace. Typically, brandy can be made from grapes like cognac or armagnac, or brandy can be made from fruit.

“Pomace brand is made from co-product of wine production, made from grape skins, seeds, and stalks,” Rosenbaum explains. “You can basically upcycle it into another product-it makes use of something that would otherwise be discarded.”

Where does grappa come from?

According to Rosenbaum, the first recorded instance of grappa being produced was in the state of Lombardy in northern Italy in the 1600s.

“Grappa was kind of born out of necessity,” he says. “The Napoleonic Wars and unification of Italy meant the common people had a hard century. The king imposed large taxes, so people would pay taxes with wine. They had this leftover co-product and that’s what they’d keep for themselves. That’s essentially why grappa has a reputation of being rustic or fiery.”

In the 17th century, chemists developed a distillation method that allowed people to derive alcohol from solid pomace rather than just liquid wine. In 1779, the first grappa distillery, the Nardini Distillery, opened near Venice, Italy, where it still makes grappa today.

How strong is grappa and what does it taste like?

“That’s like asking what wine tastes like,” Rosenbaum laughs. “Grappa has the capacity to display a multitude of flavours.” In fact, it can be made with white or red grapes, could be aged in oak or cherry or chestnut, flavoured with camomile or rue-versions vary wildly.

One common thread is that it will always taste spirituous, since typically grappa has 40% ABV and, by law, it can’t be lower than 37.5%. Essentially, don’t treat it like just drinking a beer.

Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa
Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa
Photo courtesy of Hello Grappa

What’s the difference between brandy and grappa?

Brandy is the umbrella term under which grappa falls. Basically, brandy is a family of spirits that has three sub categories: fruit brandy, grape brandy, and pomace brandy. Pomace brandy includes grappa and also Marc from France and Orujo from Spain. “Think of brandy as a sibling to those things, and as a cousin to cognac and armagnac,” Rosenbaum says.

How do you drink grappa?

Like most things, Rosenbaum says the best way to enjoy grappa depends on what type of drinker you are. “If you don’t like tequila or gin straight, you might not enjoy grappa neat,” he says. “But that’s the traditional way they serve it-as a digestif in Italy.”

But if you’re more into cocktails, it would be great in place of vodka in an Espresso Martini. He also recommends aged grappa in a Sidecar, or aromatic grappa in a Negroni in place of gin. You’ll also see it in a caff√® corretto mixed with espresso. “This is your Italian version of an Irish coffee,” Rosenbaum says.

How popular is grappa in the U.S.?

In recent years, the popularity of grappa is on the rise, thanks to the broad appeal of other Italian spirits like Aperol, Campari, and various amari. “The last two years, there’s been an uptick with the amount of grappa exported to the U.S. in terms of volume,” Rosenbaum says. “The value of grappa is much higher and people are having less of a problem spending more money on grappa.”

What are the best brands of grappa to start with?

Rosenbaum recommends three different producers in order to be introduced to the spirit. Poli Grappa di Moscato maes a single-varietal grappa with some complex aromatics. “They made a moscato grappa that smells like flowers and fresh fruit,” he says.

The second recommendation is Gra’it by Distillerie Bonollo, which is an unaged grappa made from many different grape varieties from all over Italy. That is a bit more affordable, clocking in at less than $40 a bottle.

Lastly, Rosenbaum suggests Giare from Marzadro Distillery. “It’s lovely, aged for three years in oak barrels,” he says. “You won’t get a buttery Napa chardonnay taste. Instead, you’ll have more sweet spice, vanilla, and cedar aromas.”

He adds: “My advice to anyone who wants to explore the category is try often and try as many different styles as you can.”

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Nickolaus Hines is a contributor to Thrillist.

Jess Mayhugh is the editorial director of Food & Drink for Thrillist.

Food and Drink

Why Makrut Lime Makes a Star Ingredient in Cocktails

The Southeast Asian citrus is intensely aromatic and pairs with rum, gin, tequila, and more.

Photo courtesy of Fish Cheeks
Photo courtesy of Fish Cheeks
Photo courtesy of Fish Cheeks

I grew up with a makrut lime tree in my backyard, admiring the double leaves and dimpled citrus fruit that frequently made their way into our family dinners. Makrut limes, which are sometimes referred to kaffir limes (although the term is controversial and has been widely retired), are native to Southeast Asia, but somehow my mom willed a tree to grow in our Southern California home with great success.

To me, makrut meant savoury Thai food: steamed fish curry wrapped in banana leaves and sprinkled with chiffonade makrut, simmering tom kha gai with floating bits of the hand-torn citrus leaves, and glistening green curry accentuated by the plant’s aroma.

But to others, makrut is an ideal ingredient in cocktails and other drinks. Such is the case for Fish Cheeks, a Thai restaurant in Manhattan known for its seafood dishes and eclectic, complementary cocktail menu. Beverage director Beau Fontano knew he had to include makrut in his creations, especially because the ingredient is so prominent on the food menu. Makrut lime finds its way in several drinks, most notably as a garnish atop the Thank You Kha, a riff on the acidic coconut stew tom kha gai, and the Manao Mao, a rum-based drink that uses makrut lime bitters.

“I don’t love using the word tiki, but if you think of those tiki rum cocktails, makrut definitely works well in those,” Fontano says. “But I also love it in martinis-there’s something really clean about it. And with makrut lime, if you’re just using the leaves, you can do a lot of rapid infusions.”

Fontano only uses the leaves, because the rinds and juice of makrut limes are famously bitter. “Regular lime has a little bit more sugar content, so that’s why it’s much more approachable in cocktails. Makrut limes tend to be more dry,” he explains. “But when you use the leaves in cocktails, you just smack it to wake it up a little bit and it gets that nice citrusy, refreshing aroma which is really fun.”

The leaves are cut fresh, so each drink has the scent of makrut lime leaves wafting off of them. “I’m sure at one point I will get around to it and try to figure out how to use the juice,” he laughs.

Further north at Paper Tiger in Portland, Maine, makrut lime leaves are also prevalent in a cocktail called Something Scandalous, a tequila-based drink intended to be, in the words of bartender Nick Reevy, “crushed easily.”

Paper Tiger
Paper Tiger
Paper Tiger

“I went with tequila, specifically, because in Maine it’s 80 degrees and humid pretty much all summer,” Reevy explains. “So I made something you kick back easily. Agave has a really nice softness that elevates the makrut lime, and the main flavour in that drink is the Thai basil.”

The drink is an alluring shade of green and is rounded out by cinnamon syrup and falernum. “Makrut lime is really herbal and bright in a way no other citrus is,” Reevy adds. “It’s interchangeable with other limes, but it just adds this whole other depth of flavour.”Makrut lime has even made its way into hard seltzer, albeit a limited edition drop from Lunar. Founder Kevin Wong knew he wanted to add another citrus drink to his rotation as he witnessed the successes of hard lemonades, but already had a yuzu iteration. Makrut lime seemed like a natural follow-up.

Photo courtesy of Lunar
Photo courtesy of Lunar
Photo courtesy of Lunar

“It has a very intense citrus fragrance, almost perfumey or soapy,” Wong ponders. “Like I could see Le Labo putting out a makrut lime fragrance. It has such a commanding presence and body.”

To tamper down some of the boldness of the makrut lime, the hard seltzer uses makrut lime leaf extract, lime juice, and cane sugar. The aromatics of the lime are present without too much bitterness; instead, the seltzer is grassy, acidic, and dry. Wong recommends pairing the can with spicy foods, especially Szechuan dry pot.

The makrut lime seltzer is currently sold out, and Wong is unsure whether or not another batch is in the works. “I feel like makrut lime is the greatest secret unknown to the Western world,” he says. “It’s in medicine, candy, herbal drinks, cosmetics and aromatherapy. I think we did the seltzer too early, and I don’t know if the world is ready for us to bring it back yet. Maybe in a couple of years.”

But judging by the growing popularity of makrut lime in beverage menus, the comeback might be sooner than he expects.

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Kat Thompson is a senior staff writer at Thrillist. Follow her on Twitter @katthompsonn.

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